Mini Review ~ Abbie Chemise by House Morrighan

Helen Cloke abbie chemise house morrighan mini review the jane kit

'The Abbie Chemise' (hip length variation) made in 'The Jane' kit 3.

The Abbie chemise is a pattern for stretch knits by relatively new lingerie pattern designer House Morrighan

Mini Review 

The Chemise:

  • Pattern designer: House Morrighan
  • Bra type: Two piece cup, panelled or plain bodice
  • Skill level: Beginner 
  • Size range: Size 6-16 or 14-24 with cup sizes C-I
  • Shape range: Their tagline is 'Lingerie patterns for the fuller figure'
  • Time frame: Average
 

    Value for money? 

    Ummm, while I respect the amount of work that goes into creating a sewing pattern, the price of this is on the high side compared to other basic soft bra based patterns.  However, it is a quality pattern so the price can be justified.

    Clear Instructions?

    Yes, absolutely.  The instructions are very clear with simplistic diagrams to back them up.  You could easily follow this as a beginner sewist.

    Easy to follow instructions.  I do love me some pins! A habit I can't seem to break.

    What I also love about this pdf is the option to layer (choose only the size you want printed) and there is a very clear diagram and written instructions on which pages to print for which variation.  The pattern is also 'trimless' which I hadn't come across before (and I almost exclusively sew pdf patterns) this made me very excited!  No trimming the edges of the pages!! The theory is that you line up the edge of one page with a marked line on the other page.  Only this didn't quite work for me and my pattern lines lined up best when I placed the edge of my page 6mm away from the 'line-up to' line.  I contacted the designer who hadn't come across that problem before so hopefully it's just a flaw in the size I was making.

    The green arrows indicate the edge of the page and the dashed line it should have lined up to.

    Accurate materials list ?

    I think the recommended quantities for fabric are given for the full length variation only, as 95cm was suggested for the size I cut out and I only needed 50cm.  The elastic for finishing the underarm and top of the back is called band elastic in the pattern - which may confuse some beginners.  You need a 10mm elastic preferably with a picot edge. 

    10mm picot elastic finishes the underarms.  The turn under area was getting tight where the straps were to attach.

    Clear fabric recommendations? 

    The materials required are fully specified with clear indication that the knit needs to have at least a 40% stretch.

    The Jane kit includes a buttery soft viscose spandex knit.

    Matching set potential?

    While this is a stand alone pattern it does look cute with briefs made of the same fabric.  I think it could also be combined with some yoga pants or loose knit pants to make some fab sleepwear.

    Variation possibilities?

    The pattern has options for three different lengths and you can also make a plain or panelled bodice, so there is variation potential there.

    Pattern pieces are included to turn this single front bodice panel into three panels.

    Conclusion:

    This makes a beautiful fitted chemise, perfect for layering and I think the longer length versions would be very useful too.  Although it is aimed towards fuller figures, I found it works equally well for petites too.



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