Ouch! Replacing a broken underwire

Is there anything more annoying than going about your day and SNAP, one of your bra underwires breaks?!  This is sooooo much more common in RTW (ready to wear) bras than it is in custom or handmade bras but it doesn't mean that your precious (and probably expensive) bra is destined for the dump.  With a little bit of detective work and some unpicking, you can replace your bra underwire!

Before we get to the 'how to replace your underwire' let's look at some of the reasons why underwires snap.  Avoiding the problem in the first place might be easier than the fix!

Why underwires break:

Poor Fit

Too small cups or band size. If the bra is too tight, the underwire is under constant pressure and can eventually bend or snap.

Wrong underwire shape for your breast type. If the wire doesn't follow your natural breast root (where your breast tissue meets your rib cage) it may get distorted and break. Nellie Joans stocks a wide range of underwire shapes so you can find the best match for your breast root.

Wear and Tear

Frequent wearing. Daily wear puts stress on the wire. It is best practice to have a number of bras on rotation and not wear the same one more than two days in a row.

Age of the bra. Over time, even well-fitting bras will wear down and wires can weaken.

Washing

Machine washing. It is best practice to hand wash and air dry your bras. Washing in a washing machine (especially with other items) can cause wires to twist, bend or get put under force from the rest of the washing load. If you must use a machine, pop the bras in a lingerie bag, by themselves and use a gentle cycle.

Harsh detergents. This doesn't necessarily effect the wire but can effect the stitching or channeling causing the wire to pop out.

Manufacturing or Design Flaws

Low gauge or low quality wire. In some bra brands and for some sizes the wire isn't a strong enough gauge or a high enough quality. Nellie Joans stocks heavy 24 gauge wires.

Body Movement

Putting on your bra. If you are in the habit of putting your bra on backwards (for easier access to the hook and eye) then twisting it around into the correct position, this can cause stress on the balance point of the wire.

Frequent bending or pressure at the sternum or sides. If you regularly sit in ways that put pressure on the wire area, this can stress the wire (especially at the gore or armpit area) and cause snapping.

 

How to replace a broken underwire:

Our aim here is to find a new underwire that can replicate the shape and size of the broken underwire.  When you sew your own bras, we work on matching the underwire to the body.  In replacing the wire in a bought bra, we need to work on matching the new wire to the old wire as that is what the bra has been designed around.

Step 1:

Unpick the centre front stitching that is holding the channeling closed. (Or the underarm area if that is easier to get to.) You'll need to replace both wires even if only one is broken because we still want an identical pair - so unpick both.

Unfortunately, because there is no regulation in the world of underwire manufacturing, knowing the brand and size won't give you any clues to what underwire you'll need.  Here is where a bit of detective work comes in.

Step 2:

Lay the broken wire back together on a flat surface.  Analyse the shape, i.e. is it tall and narrow? Rounded? Low at the centre front?  Then look at the cover photos of the Nellie Joans underwire products page and see if any shapes look like a match to your wire.

An example of some of the underwire styles stocked by Nellie Joans

Step 3:

For any underwire styles that look a close match, you'll need to print (to scale) the corresponding underwire chart.  A link for these can be found in each underwire product description.  Print at 100%

Step 4:

Lay your broken wire over the chart(s) to see if you can make a match for shape and length.  The important match is the circumference.  If the chart wire is a little short that won't matter too much.  If the chart wire is longer that is ok but it will mean you have to shorten the wires, which is a whole other blog post!  So aim for the same length wire or shorter, if possible.

Step 5:

Once you've made a match you can order your wire.  Then once you receive your order (overnight delivery in most instances) you can slide the new wires back into the channeling and carefully sew the opening of the channeling closed.

Woo-hoo! Your precious bra is back in rotation!

Take Note!

Not keen on playing detective and feel like the steps above are a little too much?  You can always post your broken wires to Nellie Joans and we will do the detective work for you.  Once we've made a wire match we will let you know and can even set up an order for you.

Happy bra wearing!