Swimwear Sewalong ~ Frame and Cups Assembly

Helen Cloke boylston bikini recycled swimwear nylon swimwear sewalong

Midday on Day 8 of the swimwear sewalong and my bikini top is actually starting to look like something!

I've assembled the frame and even inserted the cups.  This stage is always so exciting - seeing all the little pieces turning into an actual garment.

Bridge and Frame:

I find a temporary spray adhesive really useful in lingerie sewing; I'd say it's one of my 'must have' tools.  I use Odif 505 spray and fix.

I used the spray adhesive to stick the sheer cup lining to the swimwear lining for both the bridge and frame pieces.  It sure beats hand basting!  I then sewed the main fabric bridge piece to the lining pieces at the top as per instructions, turning and topstitching.

To create enclosed seams between the bridge and frame you need to make a sandwich like this...the bridge piece right side up in the middle, the main fabric frame piece right sides together on top of this.  Then underneath it all is the lining frame piece, right side up.

I find it useful beforehand to place all the pieces as they should look when sewn together, these can then be flipped over or under into place.

Once this is sewn the seam will then be enclosed between the two frame pieces.

I topstitched all these new seams on the seam side.

Attaching the cups:

Once again, I lay all the pieces out how they should look once sewn.  It helps to not get right and left sides mixed up!

Flip the cups over into the frame and line up notches.  Many lingerie makers and pattern instructions tell you to avoid pinning the cups in, they recommend instead just bringing the opposing curves of the pieces together as you are sewing.

I'm a pinner!  I've tried without pins and I just can't get the same level of accuracy as I do with pins.  Each to their own and whatever works and all that!

I sew with the cup side on top and go slowly, ensuring the frame isn't getting caught up underneath.

Two cups all nicely and accurately sitting in the frame.

Yay, I feel like I've really achieved something today!  It's starting to look like a bikini.  I've also managed a few small steps on the bikini bottoms but I'll post about those tomorrow.

Happy swimwear sewing!  Are you feeling as satisfied as I am?  Or were you hoping to have achieved a little bit more?

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